Part 2 / Research Journal

Research Journal

  • The American Safe Climbing Association.
    • “The ASCA mission is to replace deteriorating anchors on classic climbs in the U.S. and educate climbers and the public about climbing safety.” from Overview
    • “Anyone attaching too much importance to any rating should remember that these are subjective, and climbing should be about enjoying the vertical world, not competing with other people over some little silly numbers.” from Overview
    • “Climbing of any type inherently involves the risk of death. Those hiding their unwillingness to take responsibility for their own actions behind the current legal system of the U.S. should never attempt to climb anything.” from Overview
    • About the Director, Greg Barnes, “Greg lives in his truck, on the rock, and spends about as much time climbing as is humanly possible. While employed at his local climbing gym during college, Greg attended a rebolting clinic held by Chris McNamara. He never looked back. To date Greg has personally replaced over 1200 bolts, mostly on free climbs, in dozens of areas throughout California and Nevada. He has also put up over 100 first ascents in Yosemite, Tuolumne and many other areas.”
  • Access Fund
    • “At Access Fund, we are on a mission to protect climbing access and the integrity of America’s outdoor climbing areas.” from Our Passion.
  • The Risky Appeal of Free Climbing
    • “The exhilaration of a life-or-death situation: ‘It’s hard to untangle the various feelings, but I definitely felt alive.’ The euphoria of achieving a focus so acute that ‘pain ceases to exist.'”
  • Tommy Caldwell Article
    • “‘It’s this beautiful way to experience nature in our most dramatic landscapes. You get to know people well when you do something that’s slightly scary together and climbing is something that seems scary.'” Quote from Tommy Caldwell.
    • “‘In the end it was less about the feats of accomplishing it and more about the day-to-day life style it provided. I loved going up the wall every day, living this very intentional life of pursuit.'” Quote from Tommy Caldwell, speaking about climbing the Dawn Wall.
    • “‘Some of us process risk and fear rationally; others process it emotionally. For me, it has to do with being out on the battlefield starting at a very young age, experiencing very scary things and living through them. I process things very rationally. I don’t have an emotional reaction to things like heights.'” Quote from Tommy Caldwell
    • “‘Alex is the same. It’s one of the reasons we enjoy climbing together so much. There’s not the heaviness, the weight of possible death when we climb together. We just go out there, thinking: Man, we’re doing something so amazing! But his tolerance for risk is much higher than mine. He has this mental armor when he risks things, unlike anybody I’ve known.'” Quote from Tommy Caldwell.
  • The Rock Warriors Way
    • “Poor use of attention creates fear, which can manifest itself as anything from performance anxiety to sheer terror. By using attention more purposefully we can understand how fear is created, deal with it effectively, and free ourselves to get back in touch with a far more powerful motivating force: our love of climbing.” from Description of The Rock Warrior’s Way.
  • Bouldering to treat depression article
    • Notes
  • Reaching new heights: Comparing interpretation bias modification to exposure therapy for extreme height fear
    Steinman, Shari A.Author InformationView Profile; Teachman, Bethany A.Author InformationView Profile. Journal of Consulting and Clinical Psychology Vol. 82, Iss. 3, (Jun 2014): 404-417.

    • “Individuals with extreme height fear were assigned to two sessions of CBM-I Only, Exposure Only, CBM-I + Exposure, or a Control condition.” from Overview and Hypothesis
    • “Extremely height fearful students and community members were recruited through the university’s psychology department participant pool, flyers, and newspaper advertisements… Potential participants completed the Acrophobia Questionnaire–Anxiety sub scale.” from Method
    • “The exposure exercises took place on various heights throughout the university’s campus, such as a balcony, bridge, staircase, and bleachers of a stadium. Participants visited the locations that they were most afraid of based on their personal fear hierarchy. Exposure therapy sessions were led by advanced graduate students that completed extensive training led by the first author (an advanced graduate student) and second author (a licensed clinical psychologist).” from Exposure Therapy
    • “Overall, findings suggest that different pathways to fear reduction (exposure vs. shifting interpretations) can lead to similar reductions in height fear.” from Overview
  • How Fear Differs from Anxiety
    • “Animal models conceptualize anxiety as a response to potential danger while fear is a response to present danger.” from Overview
  • Exposure Therapy
    • “Exposure therapy is well regarded as a powerful therapeutic agent in the treatment of phobias and anxiety disorders. It is also one of the most empirically supported treatments for anxiety disorders.” from Overview.
  • Prevalence of dental fear and phobia relative to other fear and phobia subtypes
    • “Data were obtained by means of a survey of 1,959 Dutch adults, 18–93 yr of age. Phobias were assessed based on DSM-IV-TR criteria, whereas severity of present fears was assessed using visual analogue scales. The prevalence of dental fear was 24.3%, which is lower than for fear of snakes (34.8%), heights (30.8%), and physical injuries (27.2%).” from Abstract.
  • Extreme sports are good for your health: A phenomenological understanding of fear and anxiety in extreme sport
    • “Participants’ experience of extreme sports was revealed in terms of intense fear but this fear was integrated and experienced as a potentially meaningful and constructive event in their lives. The findings have implications for understanding fear as a potentially transformative process.”
  • Rock Climbing Injuries: Acute and Chronic Repetitive Trauma
    • “The overall risk of injury with climbing is relatively low, at approximately 4.2 injuries per 1000 hours of climbing, compared with 15.7 and 9.8 injuries per 1000 hours of American football and basketball, respectively.1-3 The risk of indoor climbing is even lower, with approximately 0.2 injuries per 1000 hours of climbing.”
    • “The risk of outdoor climbing, however, is much greater, with a case-fatality ratio of 6%.”
  • Sports Psychology Video

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